My friend and I sidled up awkwardly behind the chef, waiting for an appropriate time to sing his praises.
Clouds poured from the steamed bun baskets. Oil sputtered from the giant black dumpling-frying pan. The man’s hand flew upward as he flurried scallions atop the plump golden mounds of filled dough.
Gareth and I had just eaten five steamed buns and four fried dumplings apiece, and it was all I could do to stop myself from walking right back in the store and ordering another round.
For months before arriving in China, I had been told by experienced foodie travelers that the moment I got to Shanghai, buns needed to be in my mouth immediately, or I was wasting my time.
But what are these poofs of delight, exactly?
“Xiaolongbao” (in Mandarin) or “Xiaolong Mantu” (in Shanghainese — bet you didn’t know they speak their own language in Shanghai) are the super-famous steamed buns of Shanghai. They look gorgeous: like twisty-swirled white flowers of heaven.
But here’s the crazy detail about Xiaolong Mantou: they’re not just filled with pork… they also have scrumptious soup broth inside, too! Gareth insisted on taking an “action shot” of these delicacies in which she bit into a steamed bun, got squirted with molten hot broth, then gasped as the liquid poured out of the hole her teeth had made. Drama!
Xiaolong Mantou may be the most famous treat of Shanghai, but the fried dumplings, Sheng Jian Bao, are my #1 favorite.
I mean, seriously. I dare you to look at the lead photo in this article and not pick up the phone to your local Chinese delivery service to beg them to bring you some.
Can you see the fried, crispy dough exterior, artfully dappled with scallions and sesame seeds, snuggled tight around steamy ground pork?
Sheng Gian Bao is like instant comfort, delivered direct to your mouth and your soul. It is a downy soft comforter wrapped around you in winter. It is a hug from a loved one. It is a smile in food form. It’s so good!
I am literally calling my local Chinese restaurant now to deliver some distant semblance of this (“Peking Ravioli”) through the Boston sleet.
So what happened on that streetcorner in Shanghai when we finally told the chef we loved his buns?
“We love your buns and dumplings!” Gareth blurted out in Chinese. I nodded vociferously in affirmation.
“Huh?” replied the man, bewildered.
We looked back in the restaurant where people were scarfing the fruits of his labor. Were they taking that amazing taste for granted? Was that chef used to being ignored?
“I said,” Gareth tried again, “your buns and dumplings are so good. We love them!”
Chinese culture is highly different than the U.S. in terms of showing emotions and expressing appreciation. In some circumstances, “Thank You” is considered rude because it seems too formal. Had we crossed a line?
There was a pause. The buns sizzled. The chef stared at us.
And then the man cracked a smile, swift and fleeting… before focusing right back on his buns. A worthy job!
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Noelia says
Yum! The first time I tried Chinese dumplings was in your classroom. :D
Maya Baskin says
At first, I didn’t know what the first picture was.
Christine Yu says
I actually eat something like this. My family buys dumplings from the store. We cook it in water then after, we fry it. Just put oil into a pan and wait until it’s hot. When it gets hot, pour in the dumplings. Then you fry them until you like the way they look. It tastes really good.
Lillie says
YUM!!!
Joseph M. says
I think that is rude that the chef did not answer your question. I have had a dumpling before, but they did not look like that.
Raymond Wu says
I tasted both of them and they are very good. I like the bun better than the dumpling. I am still thinking why the chef didn’t answer when you asked him.
Amy Huang says
Those fried dumplings look so good! I’m starving right now and I want some of those. The dumplings look so much better than the buns, so I prefer eating the dumplings.
Koraliz says
When I come to think about it, I’ve never had dumplings. What are they like? I probably wouldn’t eat them because I’m very picky.
Lillie says
They’re delicious! Somewhat like bread, noodles, or dough filled with meat and vegetables.
Sofia L. says
That is so funny! When the chief looked at you and wondered what the heck you were talking about. If I were there, I would be laughing my head off. Ha Ha
Kelly says
Wow, that food looks delicious!
Qiyin Y says
You should try another kind of bun that is filled with crab meat and broth. They are called Bang Tang Bao. They are so good! They are similar to the Xiaolong Bao but with more broth and is filled with crab meat instaed of pork. :D They are the best in Shaihai since it is native there. I recommend you to go to Jiang Lan #1 Bao on Nanjing St in Shaihai. Those are famous!!!
Lillie says
We actually went there and stood in the line for a little before we realized that the line was so long that it would take hours to get a taste of the buns! They’re so popular there!
Elizabeth Do says
My family use to eat those all the time. I think they are good, but I have to pick around to scallions. I really like the broth part of he buns. It also keeps the buns warm until they are served.
jun hao says
I think store bought are still better!
Elizabeth Do says
I think the fresh ones are better Jun Hao. They are juicier.
Fiona Phie says
I affirm with Elizabeth.
Passport Stamps says
That looks delicious. Quick question. There are a lot of vegetarian food options in Shanghai? or is the diet heavily meat-based?
Lillie says
In China as a whole, our vegetarian travel buddy had an intense time! Read: https://www.aroundtheworldl.com/2011/09/17/a-vegetarian-trains-to-eat-meat-in-prep-for-china-travel/
Chris says
I really need to leave my blog reading until *after* lunch >_>
Nomadic Samuel says
I miss a lot of things about China but the dumplings & dim sum are certainly near the very top!