We Got Lost Trying to Find the Burren
“Excuse me, I’m looking for the famous rock thingy in the Burren?” I asked the Irish gentleman. “You know, the one with the rocks that are like this, and this, with one like this?” I flailed my hands around, making a tipped square shape. “I think it’s called Hole of Sorrows, or something creepy like that?”
Where is the Burren in Ireland?
The man shook his head with a smile, and replied with that delightful Irish accent, “Google Maps uses that ‘Hole of Sorrows’ term, but it’s mistranslated. What you’re looking for is called the Poulnabrone dolmen. It’s a portal tomb dating back to 5,000 or 6,000 years ago. It’s really quite remarkable!”
Like so many other locals we encountered on our week in Ireland, this stranger was incredibly kind. He drew a map for us, and soon we were on our way. It was a relief to be moving again, as our traveling toddler had just thrown up all over the car during our visit to the Cliffs of Moher, and the interior was starting to smell.
The Connection Between Boston and Ireland
You may ask how I knew about these stones if I’d never been to Ireland before this trip, and why I was so keen to track them down. Well, the answer is a tad goofy. You see, my dear hometown of Boston has a massive Irish population, and names its restaurants and bars accordingly.
As a result, the entire time I was planning our Ireland trip, I kept looking up from the map and exclaiming, “Hey, there’s a bar in Kendall Square named for that town!” or, “Whoa — that place is also a restaurant in downtown Boston!”
The Burren is a Bar in Somerville, MA, Too!
So what about the Burren? Well, it was one of my favorite eateries in the town of Somerville, just north of Boston, where I lived for five years! What is the logo for Somerville’s Burren restaurant?
Why, you better believe it is that magical stone portal that I found myself tracking down once we finally set foot in Ireland! I wonder if countries know what good marketing they do for travel, simply by having expats use their place names for stores…
Facts About the Burren in Ireland
As we drove, I looked up what, exactly, “the Burren” was. From the Somerville restaurant, I thought it just meant that one rock formation, but in fact, the Burren is a 48-square-mile region in County Clare, Ireland with some of the most unique “limestone pavement” ground you have ever seen.
For those (like me) who enjoy rolling words around in your mouth, the term for the cracks that cover the moon-like ground of the Burren is: “Grike.” The resulting rock bulges are called “Clints.” (Excuse me while I put my mouth on my baby‘s belly and say: “Burrrren! Griiiikes! Clinnnts!” until he giggles.)
Something that surprised me was that the Burren is considered a “Karst” or “Glacio-Karst” landscape. This struck me as odd because I know and love karsts — as you may have seen from my posts about karsts in Cuba, Laos, and Vietnam — but these supposed karsts of Ireland look nothing like the tall, flat hills I’ve frolicked past around the world. If there’s a Geologist reading this, please explain why Ireland’s karsts are small bumps instead of mini-mountains.
Finding Poulnabrone on Confusing Roads
It was more confusing than expected to find Poulnabrone, especially because we kept finding ourselves on roads that GPS named, “Unnamed Road.” We passed the time making jokes with the name, singing, “Pull the Brony!” (a “Brony” being the official term for men who love My Little Ponies).
Suddenly, the moonscape of nothingness revealed a clump of people huddled around a heap of rocks. “COLIN!” I screamed, “That’s the rock thingy! Pull the car over!!!” Colin calmed me down because I was alarming the baby, then pulled into the parking lot. We bundled up and stepped out into the wind.
How Old is the Burren?
So what exactly is this Poulnabrone dolmen, besides an intriguing decoration on a pub near Boston? In fact, it is a “portal tomb” constructed in the Neolithic period, between 4200 B.C.E. and 2900 B.C.E. When it cracked and fell a few years back, archaeologists were able to dig around under it, and found twenty-two humans elaborately buried beneath!
Yes, you heard that right… the 200,000+ people who visit Poulnabrone each year in Ireland are walking right above the bones of twenty-two people from six thousand years ago.
History of Portal Stones in Ireland
There are around 174 other “portal tombs” in Ireland, and the “portal” part of the name seems to refer to the door-like shape of the structures. For me, however, the term truly stirs the imagination. What it conjures up is the image of a time warp, right?
I half expected baby, Colin, and me to be transported momentarily back to 4200 B.C.E. if we walked through the stones! (See more imaginative drawing inspiration from around the world, featuring this spot.)
Which Shoes to Wear to The Burren
The winds were picking up and we were getting chilly, so we bustled back to the car, careful not to twist ankles on the knobby Burren “floor.” (Note: Wearing stiletto heels to the Burren would be the worst idea ever.) As we zipped down the rocky road, I felt the contented exhilaration of reuniting with an old friend. I’ll never look at that restaurant in Somerville the same way!
Have YOU Been to Ireland’s Burren?
So what about you? Have you toured the Burren? Would you like to? Have you been inspired to visit a place because of a store or restaurant with its name back home? Do share!
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Doreen Drennan says
Thank you for your comments and article about the Burren region, I live here I’m an artist and I continually strive to perfect the Burren’s natural beauty onto canvas. The Burren is certainly a place of unique and natural beauty,as well as being of historical interest, Polnabrone dates back to 5000 b.c., it’s fascination never wanes and the seasons present the elements quite differently. Being on the most Westernly point of Europe and on the edge of the Wild Atlantic we probably have the most dramatic skies…. an artists paradise!!!
Lillie says
Beautifully put!
Jennifer McCallum says
I think we circled the area five times before we found it, but it was well worth the effort! I also found my new favorite perfume at the Burren Perfumery. I can’t imagine doing the trip with a baby, you have serious travel skills!
Lillie says
Thanks, and glad you found it! I’m curious what the perfume smells like that makes it so delicious.
kathleen engel says
My dad was born in co. clare. When I took my kids to clare, my son really found the Burren interesting. There are amazin little towns nearby, like Lisdoonvarna. Also the flora and fauna of the burren aids in bealth/beauty.
also there are “healing waters” nearby at a spring. clare has their share of gypsy traditions)
co Clare in itself is interesting, mystic, ethereal. and it is really not one of the “tourist: counties (As much as Kerry or Mayo, e.g.
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Lillie says
Such fascinating details! Thanks for sharing them.
Ahlea says
Hi Lillie! This is fantastic – I’m planning a trip to Ireland this June and the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren are our first two stops! So glad I know what to look for now. I can’t wait to read the rest of your Ireland posts – I’m sure they will be just as helpful!
Lillie says
Yay! Many more to come: 18 in total planned.
Jade says
Awesome! I am 100% going to track this place down when I am in Ireland!
Deb says
The Burren was such a cool spot to visit. You described it really well. I understand it more now that I’ve read your account and I was there myself! Ha. Thanks for the explanation of it all.
Lillie says
This is one reason I love having a blog: it forces me to fully research places I’ve been to after the fact so I can get the full history and meaning. For rapid tours (like our Ireland and India trips) this is key in getting a deeper experience of a country, though I may not get to it until weeks or months after returning.
Penny Sadler says
The photos definitely provide extra inspiration. Hard to imagine a place that looks like this. Very other worldly as the word, portal, suggests. I’ve gone on trips because of books and movies, but never names of bars or restaurants. :)
Lillie says
Never too late to start! Hehe…
Mary @ Green Global Travel says
I normally think of portals as something in a sci-fi movie, but somehow having a portal tomb makes perfect sense- connecting or marking the transition from one world to the next. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Lillie says
Agreed on both counts!
Joshua J. Mark says
Magnificent article. Captures all the strange vitality and serenity of the place and the photos definitely enliven the reading experience. One can’t really grasp the place unless one’s been there but this piece provides a fine invitation full of all the allure of the Burren. Thanks!
Saravana Kumar says
I forgot to mention the little one.. so cute.
Lillie says
Thanks! We enjoy him.
Christy Sinclair says
A chara Lillie,
Glad you enjoyed your visit to The Burren so much.
Firstly a Karst landscape is one formed from the dissolution of soluble rocks such as limestone, dolomite, and gypsum. In the case of The Burren it’s limestone of course.
Bró means Quern and brón means sorrow so the conflict about the derivation of the name is understandable.
Pity I did not know you were in the area, I live close by, near The Old Carron Church, I could have shown you an even more impressive tomb which is seldom visited due to being less easily accessed, it takes a bit of a cross country walk to get it. It’s on a walk we take visitors on and we call it a 6000 year walk. But it only takes three to four hours or so.
Le meas,
Christy Sinclair.
Lillie says
Christy,
Aw, I wish we could have seen that other dolmen! Next time! Thanks for the karst information.
Christy Sinclair says
Just to tease you a bit . . .
http://on.fb.me/1E5BePZ
A few photos,
Lillie says
Wow!
Jane says
That’s a field full of stones, it looks truly alien.
I hope this summer I can get there at least for one day.
Stacey Hamilton says
So nice!!! This makes me want to go to Ireland!!!!
Declan says
Stacey Hamilton
Please do. I’m from Ireland. More specifically I am from Co Clare which featured heavily in Lillie’s trip. I’m delighted that Lillie and her boys had a great time on the west coast of this country. Too many times have I spoken to tourists who start their trip in Dublin and spend too much time there and miss out on the “real” Ireland. Here is a short video if what the Wild Atlantic Way has to offer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JrdFaYx8VU
http://www.ireland.com/en-gb/wild-atlantic-way/
Saravana Kumar says
Great photographs, I wonder who photographed both of you together? Was there another member with you?
Lillie says
Thanks! The photo of us three was taken by a nice French tourist. We offered to take a photo of her family if she took one of ours!