An Intro to Food in Ghana! Banku and More

"Okay," you may be saying, "youth organizations are all well and good... but what are you EATING in Ghana?"

Glad you asked! Here's the crash-course intro to delicious Ghanaian food that I have gotten over the past ten days. Dig in...

Food in Ghana.
Food in Ghana.

1. There will be banku and fufu!

On your table, you will see (pictured, above):

a) A ball of soft corn/cassava/yam dough of clay-like mush-ability.

b) A bowl of water with liquid soap so you can wash, because in Ghana, you eat with your hands.

c) A bowl of yummy, red, vegetable/meat/fish/bean stew.

To eat, do the following:

a) Raise your right hand (not your left because that's rude and unclean!) and swizzle it in the water.

b) Pinch off a chunk of the white dough and smush it into an oval.

c) Dip the dough into the stew, and slurp it into your mouth!

d) Repeat, until dough and stew have been happily consumed.

"You really are undergoing trial by fire, here," chuckled Dan when he took me to eat banku on my very first afternoon in Sogakope.

We were sitting at a table overlooking the Volta River and the wind was sprinting straight at us. The Cisneros riverbank restaurant is the coolest place in Sogakope, temperature-wise! As the waiter brought our food, the fat bottled water I ordered flew off the tray in a particularly forceful gust of wind.

The waiter shook his head as he placed the banku in front of me. "Beware the wind," he boomed dramatically.

Cooking banku in Ghana.
Cooking banku in Ghana.

Um, yes. By the end of my hour attempt at eating, my fingers, arms, and bright blue shirt were coated with flame-orange strings of the chicken-okra stew. It was delicious, but it was also a total disaster. (See the "after" photo of the plates to the upper right!)

Needless to say, now I've just accepted that I'm a wimp and currently eat my banku by plopping the dough right into the stew bowl and eating it all with a spoon.

(The photo above is one of many women we pass in the street who is making banku in the traditional manner.)

Plantains and beans in Ghana.
Plantains and beans in Ghana.

2. Some of Ghana's food will remind you of the Caribbean and Brazil.

The other day I did an elated jig of joy when I saw lunch: fried sweet plantains, beans in tomato sauce, and yellow rice (pictured, right)!

Ahh, my inner Dominican was so happy! Frijoles! Platanos!

The African diaspora did a good thing in spreading its scrumptious cuisine across the ocean.

Millicent cooking a giant yam.
Millicent cooking a giant yam.

3. Cassava Yams are GIGANTIC.

"What is THAT?" I gasped, upon seeing Millicent sawing at a two-foot long monstrosity with a butcher knife (pictured, left).

"You have never seen a yam before?" Millicent asked.

"The yams I know don't look like THAT!" I exclaimed in awe.

Millicent went on to explain that there are various different sizes of yams here, some sweet, and some starchy.

She tossed the white chunks of cassava into a boiling pot of water, and an hour later we were eating steaming white happiness with vegetable-fish stew!

Selling bread by the road in Ghana.
Selling bread by the road in Ghana.

4. Poofy yellow loaves of bread are everywhere in Sogakope.

Sogakope has a booming bread trade. The semi-circle humps of mud ovens dot the countryside, and bread workers burn sticks of wood inside until the temperature spikes, then pull the wood out and shove the bread in.

When everything is cooked, they slide the bread out and leave it to cool in piles. Then they ship it off on wheelbarrows to the various bread hawking meccas.

Want to buy this sweet, fluffy bread at any time of day or night? Head to the military checkpoint right before the Volta River bridge. The second your vehicle slows down to less than ten miles per hour, hordes of enthused youngsters will hurl themselves at your windows, sticking the wrapped loaves under your nose and trying to make a sale.

If you are behind a multi-person tro tro taxi, you may be held up for some time while everyone in the van in front of you buys yeasty goodness and cold drinks for their kids waiting at home.

Ghana's chocolate spread!
Ghana's chocolate spread!

5. There is a Ghanaian chocolate spread like Nutella.

It is called: "Choco Delight"

Mmm... enough said.

It will be a tough task, but I promise to keep investigating worldwide food and bringing reports back to you. Please start a penny collection to fund my gym membership upon return.

After eating some of the banku.
After eating some of the banku.

11 Comments

  1. This is a very interesting article about the food there. Also the foods presented in the pictures look tasty, and I bet it's scrumptious! All so I would like to add that there is a similar dish to Banku.

  2. Everything looks so good! I wish I could try everything here! The "Choco Delight" looks very yummy! Also the yams look very interesting! Is the food there mostly healthy?

  3. Ghana seems like such a delightful place. Its variety of food is very exquisite. The food looks very appetizing. Your website is truly intriguing. It seems very useful and extremely pleasing. I am excited to see where your website goes later in the future!

  4. That's so cool! I would love to try to "Choco Delight" there. Everything seems so good to eat especially the banku, but maybe I'll put some hot sauce on it!

  5. Pingback: Stumble Bug Sunday - October 2nd 2011 | Bitten by the Travel Bug
  6. The stew sounds so good --- and I love that you can dip and slurp. wouldn't mind a taste of the plantain, beans & rice dish. love your photos.

  7. am a ghanain living in spain bilbao ,
    looking at your picstures makes me miss my days in my home land ghana.
    because all the food u photographed are diliciouse.
    here are some list of food in ghana u need to try the next time u visit ghana
    1. tuo zaafi a food from the north of ghana
    2. fufu and palm- nut soup or aponkye nkrankra or with ground nut soup
    3. ampesi consist of cooked tubers of yamm or plaintain with beans stew or nkontomire
    4. kenkey with shito and fish from the greater accra region of ghana
    i hope u enjoy your stay next time you visit ghana

  8. Their yams are white? I thought yams (at least ours) were orange.

    Do they have spicy foods in Ghana (like Jamaican jerk or any sort of peppers)?

    Do they have a sort of malt beverage (OK....beer, I'll admit it, I'm a beer connoisseur) that they drink in Ghana?

    Glad you found the chocolate. Women. Chocolate. Yes, it is stereotypical, but your smiling face and the canister above provide the incriminating evidence.

    1. I made the same comment about the Yams and was laughed out of the room! Yes, there are spice foods... mmm! YES, they have a non-alc malt called "Malta" that is SOO good and is made by Guinness. Alcoholically, they have Star beer and a few others that I forget, and then they have a "Guinness" that is totally different than the American version: much thicker, sweeter, and more alcoholic.

      As for women + chocolate, YES. If I ever meet a lass who doesn't like that heavenly treat I scream: "ARE YOU EVEN A FEMALE??"

  9. Adam said...
    The food looks delicious! Thanks for sharing the photos.

    January 18, 2010 5:40 PM

    Luddy Sr. said...
    Mmmmmm.....yummy! I missed the food so much that I searched all over stop & shot for anything remotely Ghanaian. The closest things I could find are plantain chips, canned mangos, and a gallon of Tampico Citrus punch. I'm gonna crank the heat to 90, get a plastic chair and make pretend I'm back in the guesthouse.

    January 22, 2010 5:23 AM

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