In Thailand, you can wake up in your hotel room at one pm (two hours after checkout), stagger to the reception clerk and say, “I think I’ll stay another night, cool?” The clerk will usually smile and nod, graciously murmuring something like, “I guessed you would.”
Being a George Bush style genius, I decided to try this tactic in Hanoi, Vietnam. The result? As I swaggered out the hotel door, all excited for my chicken Pho breakfast, the clerk sharply yelled, “You need pack and move. We give your room away because you didn’t say you want stay. New people come in one hour so please go.”
Ouch! The sharp Vietnam hustle stings again.
And thus there I was, homeless, heartbroken, and desperately typing in the hotel’s lobby on G-chat to my friend Derian’s friend Liz’s friend Ahmar, who had mentioned he and his housemates had an extra couch, should I need a sanctuary in Hanoi. Kindly and miraculously, Ahmar offered to pick me up from the hotel on his motorcycle within the hour.
How nice it was to be in a house again! Ahmar lives in the gorgeous four story pad of a witty Irish ex-pat who has lived in Hanoi for nine years. I luxuriated on their home’s couches and marveled at the fact that the people who lived there weren’t just tourists who moved on in two days. Oooh—stability!
“Where do you want to eat?” Ahmar asked, as we puttered down the street on his motorcycle. I left it up to his brilliant judgment, and fifteen minutes later was inhaling a bowl of nirvana: Bun bo nam bo.
Bun bo nam bo is a heavenly mix of noodles, beef, lettuce, coriander, basil, beansprouts, and crushed peanuts, with sweet sauce joyously doused on top. The best place to get it in Hanoi is a store by the same name, which sells only Bun bo nam bo… for about a dollar a bowl. Ordering is easy; just say how many bowls you want! No choices needed beyond that. YUM. Thanks, Ahmar!
It is truly a gift for a person who knows a city well to take a wandering visitor by the hand!
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Notmyyearoff says
December 15, 2013 at 4:50 amYummy, looks really delicious!
Lillie says
December 15, 2013 at 3:51 pmIt was!
David Billa says
September 22, 2012 at 10:10 pmBun Bo is one of the best dishes in the world! And it’s so easy to prepare even I can do a decent one. :-)
Lillie says
September 22, 2012 at 10:23 pmOooo I’ve never tried to make it!
Trung Le says
June 14, 2012 at 7:47 pmI haven’t been to Vietnam for over 8 years. I am going this year and so excited a few more week until I get to visit my family. I have never heard of that food but would like to try it.
Simon Phung says
May 2, 2012 at 11:29 amI thought Hanoi was two separate words, looks like I’m wrong. I love pho, I like pho thai more (beef pho) than pho ga (chicken pho). My family is from Northern Vietnam, and my cousin is from Hanoi.
Lillie says
May 2, 2012 at 12:13 pm“Hanoi” is spelled in several different ways, as are many words that are translated from a different alphabet.
Amy Huang says
December 30, 2011 at 10:47 amYum! The smile on your face tells me that you enjoyed this amazing food.
Sarah says
June 27, 2011 at 11:57 amAs a veggie traveller I think I’ve missed out a bit on the Vietnamese food experience. Aside from a few specialist Com Chay restaurants, the authentic Vietnamese places (frequented by locals) are pretty meat heavy :( The few Veg noodle soups I’ve managed to find have been worth the hunt!
flip says
June 26, 2011 at 5:36 pmcannot remember if ive tried this but i also love their cheap baguette sandwiches :-) this post makes me hungry!! ;-)
Malaysia S. says
December 23, 2010 at 9:09 pmThat sounds really good especially the bean sprouts. I love bean sprouts
Imported Blogger Comments says
May 26, 2010 at 4:41 pmLouisa said…
My favorite thing in all of Vietnam. Jealous!!
October 30, 2009 1:57 PM
Cousin Doug said…
Ok I want more food posts and pix please.
October 30, 2009 9:45 PM